Lenin Peak 7134 meters elevation is in the Pamir Mountains. Every year, several hundred people from all over the world try to climb to this summit. Normal route has no technical difficulties and now more and more skiers are trying their hand on the slopes of Lenin Peak. You can ski down from the top along the north wall. Simpler routes from the lower levels are also available.
Ascent to Lenin Peak is a difficult high altitude climbing expedition. And you need about two weeks to adapt to the altitude. You will alternate the rises to a high level with rest in the base camp. Only after two or three parts of acclimatization, you can go to 7000 meters.
We suggest that you use the services of our base camp at Lenin Peak. There you will find spacious tents, delicious varied food, shower and sauna. Our experienced staff will assist you in planning acclimatization campaigns and ascents. Of course, we provide a full range of services for climbing - professional mountain guides, high-altitude porter, mountaineering training and advice on routes.
About 50 years of history Skiing descents from the summit of Lenin Peak. Since that more than 100 people got down on skis from the top. This ski route is very popular among fans of off-piste skiing. In far 1968 Valentin Suloev made the first descent on slopes of Lenin Peak not as thrill-seeker - he saved human lives. As part of the rescue team, Suloev managed meeting of first paratroopers to Lenin Peak. During the landing on the summit tragedy occurred, four out of ten paratroopers died due to strong wind. When the survivors were brought to the camp at an altitude of 6800 meters, the rescuers faced with a new problem - radio transceiver went out of service and in order to report about the tragedy, and call for help, Valentine Suloev skied down to the base camp - that was the first descent from Lenin peak on skis.
Currently, ski trails on the slopes of Lenin Peak are still interesting, difficult and prestigious. The difference in altitude is more than 2700 meters, the slopes are steeper than 45 degrees and snow conditions changes several times during the descent - all these remain in the memory of skiers, who descent, forever. Slopes are varied: you can go down along the path of ascend, to tell the truth it is the most secure option. Also there are eastern ridge with some starting points on the north wall.
Acclimatization program is not so much different from the program of mountaineering. The distinguish in the programs is that during the acclimatization and days of the rest we organize ski touring on nearby slopes. The program is recommended, but is not mandatory to use. You can develop your schedule ascent and subsequent descent from the summit. If you want to change the duration of the program or to add any other services, please contact us, we would be happy to develop an individual program.
For experienced climbers we offer only packages of the Base Camp. If you is not enough, look at the list of additional services.
Day 1. Arrival to Osh city, transfer to the base camp Achik-Tash (BC - 3600 m);
Day 2. Acclimatization day in BC area;
Day 3. Hike to Camp 1 (C1 - 4400 m);
Day 4. Acclimatization day in C1 area, training descends to get know to the avalanche situation;
Day 5. The first acclimatization climb to the second camp (C2) - 5300 m. Overnight in a camp 2;
Day 6. Skiing from C2 to C1. Overnight in camp one (C1);
Day 7. Training descents on the nearby slopes. Overnight in C1;
Day 8. The second acclimatization. Climb to the camp 2 (C2 - 5400 m), overnight in C2;
Day 9. Go to the Camp 3 (C3 - 6100 m). Overnight in C3;
Day 10. Skiing to the C1, Lunch, Descent to BC, Overnight in BC;
Day 11. Day of the rest. Overnight in BC;
Day 12. Day of the rest. Overnight in BC;
Day 13. Reserve day;
Day 14. Hike to the C1, Overnight in C1;
Day 15. Climb to the C2, Overnight in C2;
Day 16. Climb to the C3, Overnight in C3;
Day 17. Climb to the top of Lenin Peak (7134 m), descend on the chosen route. Overnight in the C3 or C1, depending on the option of chosen descent;
Day 18. Climb to camp 3 (C3) to take stuff down;
Day 19. Descent to BC, Overnight in BC;
Day 20. Transfer to Osh, Accommodation in hotel;
Day 21. Transfer to the airport.
The route starts from the base camp "Achik-Tash" (3600 m). From here to the Lukovaya glade about an hour of hiking. This part can be driven by an SUV to save energy and time. Further a good trail rises to the Travelers Pass (4100 m), a small descent down and than a traverse along a steep slope close to the Lenin glacier. The road is very picturesque and it's a lot of fun to go this way in good weather. Before the final part of the way to Camp 1 (ABC) you need to cross the river. Depending on the time of day and weather, you may not notice it by jumping over stones. But sometimes, this is quite a difficult crossing and in this case it's better to use the services of horses to save health before the forthcoming climbing. Camp 1 (4400 m) is located on the lateral moraine of the Glacier of Lenin. For the first time, 5-7 hours is normal transition between BC and C1.
The path from the First Camp to the Camp 2 (5400 m) is given very hard both physically and psychologically. Many glacial crevices and some risk avalanche make this place the most dangerous on the route. You need to leave Camp 1 long before dawn. This will allow you to minimize the danger and to avoid the hot sun in the afternoon. It is necessary to use rope and protection equipment for glaciers all the way. Crevices are found even in the Camp 2 spot between the tents. There are fix ropes in the most dangerous places, using of jumar (ascender) or prusik is recommended. The first acclimatization trip an average of 6-7 hours. On steep parts it's easier to go in climbing crampons and fix skis on backpack. Camp 2 is located on a small moraine under the rocks or close to this moraine.
Above Camp 2 is no longer the heat that at the previous section. Early exit is not necessary here. There are two snow-ice steeps on the way to Camp 3 (6100 m), which are very difficult to take in the acclimatization period. Here, many go without a rope, although cases of falling into the cracks were. It is also easier to go in climbing crampons on the steep. At an average rate of 4-6 hours before Camp 3 near the top of the Razdelnaya Peak. The camp is located on a snowy plateau, and you need the shovel for fixing your tent. This camp is for summit day. From here it is necessary to climb to the top and return back for one light day. If you plan to ski on the northern wall of Lenin Peak this should be to Camp 1 before dark.
Summit day. Start at 4-6 AM. It is necessary to ski to the saddle and then ascent to the steep wide Western ridge of Lenin Peak. On the crest, at an altitude of 6,400 meters there is a spot for opportunity another camp – Camp 4. Some people do it. Next, keeping the left side of the ridge moving towards the top. The main technical part is a 45-degree ice-snow steep about a hundred meters length, called the "Knife" (6700 m). Further on the shelves along the rocks you reach the flat snow field - "Parachute Plateau". Traverse it without losing altitude, above the plateau – several hills. There are no clear landmarks, and when bad visibility it's easy to get lost. There are a lot of flags and things left by the climbers and a small bust of Vladimir Ilyich Lenin at the top.
If you have sufficient training and acclimatization, the ascent to the summit takes 6-8 hours. An important rule of safety - at 14-00 should start down! From any place!
Descent along the northern wall of Lenin Peak. It is better if someone corrects the descent line by radio.
Base Camp – Camp 1 $ 3/kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 $ 10/kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 $ 20/kg
You should have insurance coverage for 30,000 US Dollars.
The insurance should cover injured transportation.
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