Lenin Peak is a Pamir mountain with height of 7134 meters. Every year several hundred people from all over the world try to climb to this summit. The normal route to the top across the Razdelnaya peak, does not contain technically complicated rocky or ice parts. But do not forget that Lenin Peak is more than seven thousands meters and it is a real mountaineering expedition. To successfully complete it, you take about three week’s hard work on the high altitude. The ascent to the highland zone alternates with rest in the base camp. Only after two or three acclimatization parts you can go to seven thousands meters.
The program starts from Osh - a city with noisy eastern bazaars, green streets and hospitable locals. From the Osh city to the Base Camp takes 5-6 hours by car. The road is mostly good asphalt, only the final 40 km pass along the dirt road.
We suggest that you use the services of our camps under the Lenin Peak. Here you will find spacious tents, delicious varied food, shower and sauna. Our experienced staff will assist you in planning acclimatization campaigns and ascents. Of course, we provide a full range of assistance services for climbing - experienced professional guides, tireless high-altitude porters, training in mountaineering and advice on routes, also equipment rental.
The Lenin Peak base camp is located in the Achik-Tash area at an altitude of 3600 meters. This place is ideal for acclimatization and rest before climbing. Small lakes, hiding between green hills, a powerful river flowing at the bottom of the gorge and steep ridges overlooking the snow-capped peaks - everything will leave only pleasant memories in your life.
Accommodation in the Base Camp as well as in the First Camp is offered in double tents. The dining room is made in the Kyrgyz national dwelling – yurt and equipped with everything you need: tables and benches, electricity for charging your equipment (220V 50Hz) and lighting in the evening. Here you can deservedly appreciate the professionalism of our chefs and enjoy the dishes of local and European cuisine. There is a bar with drinks. Water for cooking and drinking is taken from natural springs, but we recommend boil water or take mineral water in bottles.
The first camp is located 12 km from the base camp, at an altitude of 4400 meters. You go on a good trail crossing the Travelers Pass (4100 m), the hiking takes 5-7 hours. The organization of life here is like the Base Camp, just no greenery here. The place for the camp is a stony moraine; we use wooden pallets under all tents and a big tent for the dining room. Daily delivery of fresh products is perfectly arranged and varied, tasty and satisfying menu will pleasantly surprise you.
We offer only Base Camp package for independent climbers. Also we prepare additional services. Guides, high-altitude porters, horses and much more are available at the Base Сamp and the Сamp 1. Pay attention to the list of additional services below.
Day 1. Arrival to Osh city, transfer to the base camp Achik-Tash (BC - 3600 m);
Day 2. Acclimatization day in BC area;
Day 3. Hike to Camp 1 (C1 - 4400 m);
Day 4. Acclimatization day in C1 area;
Day 5. The first acclimatization. Overnight stay at Panoramic (Yuhina) peak (5100 m);
Day 6. Descent to the С1. Overnight in C1;
Day 7. Rest day, ice climbing training;
Day 8. The second acclimatization. Climb to the camp 2 (C2 - 5400 m), overnight in C2;
Day 9. Go to the Camp 3 (C3 - 6100 m). Overnight in C3;
Day 10. Descent to the C1, Lunch, Descent to BC, Overnight in BC;
Day 11. Reserve day;
Day 12. Rest day, Overnight in BC;
Day 13. Rest day, Overnight in BC;
Day 14. Hike to the C1, Overnight in C1;
Day 15. Climb to the C2, Overnight in C2;
Day 16. Climb to the C3, Overnight in C3;
Day 17. Climb to the top of Lenin Peak (7134 m), descent to C-3, Overnight in C-3
Day 18. Descent to the C-1, Overnight in C-1;
Day 19. Descent to BC, Overnight in BC;
Day 20. Transfer to Osh, Accommodation in hotel;
Day 21. Transfer to the airport.
The route starts from the base camp "Achik-Tash" (3600 m). From here to the Lukovaya glade about an hour of hiking. This part can be driven by an SUV to save energy and time. Further a good trail rises to the Travelers Pass (4100 m), a small descent down and than a traverse along a steep slope close to the Lenin glacier. The road is very picturesque and it's a lot of fun to go this way in good weather. Before the final part of the way to Camp 1 (ABC) you need to cross the river. Depending on the time of day and weather, you may not notice it by jumping over stones. But sometimes, this is quite a difficult crossing and in this case it's better to use the services of horses to save health before the forthcoming climbing. Camp 1 (4400 m) is located on the lateral moraine of the Glacier of Lenin. For the first time, 5-7 hours is normal transition between BC and C1.
The path from the First Camp to the Camp 2 (5400 m) is given very hard both physically and psychologically. Many glacial crevices and some risk avalanche make this place the most dangerous on the route. You need to leave Camp 1 long before dawn. This will allow you to minimize the danger and to avoid the hot sun in the afternoon. It is necessary to use rope and protection equipment for glaciers all the way. Crevices are found even in the Camp 2 spot between the tents. There are fix ropes in the most dangerous places, using of jumar (ascender) or prusik is recommended. The first acclimatization trip an average of 6-7 hours. Camp 1 is located on a small moraine under the rocks or close to this moraine.
Above Camp 2 is no longer the heat that at the previous section. Early exit is not necessary here. There are two snow-ice steeps on the way to Camp 3 (6100 m), which are very difficult to take in the acclimatization period. Here, many go without a rope, although cases of falling into the cracks were. At an average rate of 4-6 hours before Camp 3 near the top of the Razdelnaya Peak. The camp is located on a snowy plateau, and you need the shovel for fixing your tent. This camp is for summit day. From here it is necessary to climb to the top and return back for one light day.
Summit day. Start at 4-6 AM. It is necessary to descend to the saddle and then ascent to the steep wide Western ridge of Lenin Peak. On the crest, at an altitude of 6,400 meters there is a spot for opportunity another camp – Camp 4. Some people do it. Next, keeping the left side of the ridge moving towards the top. The main technical part is a 45-degree ice-snow steep about a hundred meters length, called the "Knife" (6700 m). Further on the shelves along the rocks you reach the flat snow field - "Parachute Plateau". Traverse it without losing altitude, above the plateau – several hills. There are no clear landmarks, and when bad visibility it's easy to get lost. There are a lot of flags and things left by the climbers and a small bust of Vladimir Ilyich Lenin at the top.
If you have sufficient training and acclimatization, the ascent to the summit takes 6-8 hours. An important rule of safety - at 14-00 should start down! From any place!
Descend only along the same path.
Base Camp – Camp 1 $ 3/kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 $ 10/kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 $ 20/kg
You should have insurance coverage for 30,000 US Dollars.
The insurance should cover injured transportation.
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